I have been winterizing my wells, and today I was out digging around to install a small enclosure around the main well. This well was constructed in 1995. I just purchased this house in March and I'm not sure if the components in the well are original.While digging some dirt out from around the casing I began to see the top of a red piece of plastic that appeared to be wrapped around part of the casing, about 6 inches down. When I pulled the top back a little, I could clearly see a hole and a damaged section of the casing. I dug on down and ended up finding what you see in the photos: a pretty good sized hole in the casing that someone tried to fix using this piece of plastic (which incidentally appears to be part of the packaging for a Red Jacket pump).My question for the well professionals is, what are my options for repairing this hole? Is there any way to patch this? Should I expect to have to dig down to below where the damage is and then have a coupling installed and a new piece of casing? An entire new casing and pump (the well is 450 feet deep).Once I cleaned off the casing, I could see that the red piece of plastic had been used to "repair" the hole; some sort of material had been applied, apparently in an effort to glue or attach the red piece of plastic over the hole in the casing. If it ever had sealed and stuck, it failedlong ago, resulting in the piece of red plastic simply being held loosely to the side of the casing by the dirt packed in around it.Thanks for any insight or advice.
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All well casing will use threaded couplers for ease/speed in installation and so the casing can be pulled in the future if needed. Usually 21' lengths are used for ease of transport/storage. PVC is a good choice and it is pressure rated the same as the steel which has serious rust problems because it is mild unprotected steel pipe. IIRC both are sch 40 but I may be wrong on the schedule. Usually the steel is only 3/16" thick.
Sch 80 PVC in 21' lengths is also a good choice for the drop pipe and one manufacturer has a patented bell end with a no tread coupling feature. That's if you aren't going with the IMO better choice of coiled PE (polyethylene) tubing with only a fitting on each end. It is used in a continuous roll down to 500+' with either 160 or 200 psi rated. Galvanized is the worst choice due to corrosion and added iron to the water and then clogging due to rusting internally, which causes pressure loss and eventual replacement. That can happen in a short time depending on the water quality.
Lightening causes many pump failures each year although that doesn't mean the casing is struck.
Gary Slusser
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