We’ve all heard of subway tile. It’s the tile version of shiplap. By that I mean it’s the most ubiquitous style of tile in the world and it’s didn’t even Chip and Joanna Gaines to make it famous.
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Subway tile is like The Beatles of the tile world. Everyone has heard of it and most people love it, though like any top dog there are always the contrarians who refuse to drink the Kool-Aid.
In this post I wanted to compile my years of experience working with and around subway tile to give you the ultimate guide to subway tile. So let’s dive in.
On October 27, 1904 New York City’s first subway line opened at City Hall running along Centre Street north to Grand Central Station (the current route of the No. 6 train). Designers needed a way to make the dark and dreary tunnels seems clean, bright and appealing to New Yorkers to encourage them to travel underground (a radical idea for the times).
City Hall Subway Station prior to opening in 1904To do this they turned to architects George C. Heins and Christopher Grant La Farge who designed the first subway stations for the IRT line including the showpiece station at City Hall. To accomplish this they created the distinctive 3″ x 6″ glaze white rectangles we’re all so familiar with today.
Heins and LaFarge knew what materials would stand up well to heavy-duty cleaning and scrubbing; they worked with the ceramic-producing firms Grueby Faience Company of Boston and Rookwood Pottery of Cincinnati to create the tiles.
Even though Heins and LaFarge only designed a few early stations from 1901 to 1906 the architects like Squire Vickers who followed them as designer of the city’s subway stations from 1906 to 1942 followed their initial design aesthetic using mosaic tiles for for the station names with decorative borders and arts and craft motifs.
In the early days of the subway citizens admired the state of the art trains and designs so much that it wasn’t long before subway tile began appearing in bathrooms, kitchens, and utility rooms around around the area before spreading into a full fledged design craze in the 1920s with the advent of the “sanitary craze” when people believed that dirt carried disease and having easy to clean white surfaces could keep them safer from disease.
The tile was considered to be exceptionally sanitary because of the ease of cleaning and its pencil thin grout lines.
Is subway tile out of style today? Hardly! Subway tile has been one of the most resilient trends in tile design for well over a century and forecasters see no stopping to its dominance. Expect to see more creative designs, colors and patterns, but the basic rectangular shape of the subway tile still reigns supreme.
One of the most useful things about subway tile is their flexibility and utility. Think of a box of subway tile like a box of Legos. You can build almost anything from that box of goodies. A dragon, a pirate ship, or my kid’s favorites a race car. I’m talking the Legos here, but subway tile is just as flexible in the tile sense in that the design you can create from it are really left up to the limits of your own imagination.
The sizes of subway tile can vary greatly and many manufacturers have their own custom sizes that others don’t. Below I’ll mention the most common sizes that you’ll find.
The most common form of subway tile that we all know almost instantly is the traditional 3×6 white field tiles. These little rectangles are the major building blocks for millions of bathrooms around the world. Commonly between 1/4” and 3/8” thick they can and have been used in innumerable ways from tub surrounds, to backsplashes to actual subways.
Today you’ll find any number of different size and shape rectangles as people look for more variety. 6×9, 2×12, even 1×16 these all got their start from those original 3×6 rectangles underground in new York’s subways.
If you are wanting larger subway tiles, but still want the same proportions then stick with a 1:2 proportion to keep that historic feel. So, pick dimensions like 1×2, 2×4, 3×6, 4×8, and so on.
One of the biggest difference in subway tile design and appearance is the edging of the tiles. By this I’m referring to the perimeter of each tile. Traditional subway tiles are almost flat with a rectified edge which, when installed, creates a very smooth and cohesive wall of tile with little to no variation.
Some less historically accurate subway tiles have a slight bevel on the edges to make installation simpler, but this also creates variety in the field that would not have been there in traditional installations.
Some subway tiles go as far as having beveled edges to create a completely different style for those who desire it. Check out the various options you can find and make the decision based on your own personal design aesthetics.
The most common and historically appropriate pattern was the have the tiles laid horizontally and offset by half the distance just like a brick wall. Sometimes called a common bond or offset pattern the running bond provides a secure and cohesive field of subway tile that harkens back to the old tunnels of New York. This design can also be run vertically but if far less common.
A complex design that has a high end feel to it and add visual interest. The herringbone pattern gets its name from its visual similarity to the bone structure of a herring fish. The pattern has been used into antiquity as the Romans built their first paved roads using stones laid in a herringbone pattern. The strong interweaving of the materials provides a pattern that is extremely resilient to traffic.
Herringbone tile designLess common the straight stacking of subway tile either vertically or horizontally gives a unique modern look with lined up joints throughout the whole body of the tile.
The first subway tiles were made from ceramic. Of course, today they are available in the standard materials almost any tile is made out of like ceramic, porcelain, glass, marble, and other stone. The determining factor is what look and function do you want to have with your subway tile.
Ceramic tile is made from clay with a glazed face to it. The glazing creates the color and sheen that shows to the public but if the tile breaks then you’ll see the orange clay inside. Ceramic is an inexpensive option that works well for installations on a budget. It holds up reasonably well for most projects and is pretty common.
The general standard for subway tile porcelain tile is harder and has color throughout the body of the whole tile unlike ceramic. If it chips or is cut then the issue is less evident with porcelain. The increased hardness comes from the premium materials used in the production of porcelain tile. If you can afford the increased costs (we’ll discuss those below) then porcelain is always my recommendation.
The least historical in style, glass subway tiles are typically smaller in dimension and often used for things like backsplashes. The tile come in a wide variety of colors.
A lot of manufacturers make marble and stone versions of the traditional subway tiles Marble is a great materials for tile, but it is a soft stone that can easily scratch, etch or stain if exposed to certain chemicals
How much does subway tile cost? That all depends on where you buy it and what it’s made from. Ceramic will typically be the least expensive followed by porcelain, glass and marble at the top of the price range.
At the low end a basic ceramic subway tile like DalTile’s 3×6 Restore line will run you around $1.20 per SF. For top notch restoration quality tile like Heritage Tile’s SubwayCeramics 3×6 field tile line which is solid porcelain you can expect to pay about $20 per SF.
Which do you need? That completely depends on the look and style you want, but you can expect to pay more for designer versions that the standard types just like with any product.
Just like installing any tile there are some basics you should know that are specific to subway tile installation. For a tutorial of the entire installation process I did a few years ago check out this earlier post How To: Install Subway Tile.
This will depend largely on the size tile you are using, but for standard 3×6 subway tile a 1/4″ x 1/4″ x 1/4″ square notched trowel is usually the right size. Any smaller and you risk not having enough mortar to securely hold the tile and any larger of a notch and you’ll get lots of thinset mortar squeezing out in the joints.
You can choose whatever size grout joints you want, but if you want a tradtional look to your subway tile then the smaller the joint the better so I’d recommend nothing larger than a 1/16″ joint for a historically accurate subway tile installation. I have worked with some irregular shaped subway tiles that were handmade and tiles like that require a 1/8″ joint to accommodate the slight differences in their size.
Some subway tile have spacers on the edges to give them the proper spacing and some require the use of plastic spacers until the mortar dries. Take a quick peek at your tile and check to see which kind you are dealing with and use spacers accordingly.
Again this is completely up to personal preference, but the historically accurate colors for subway tile grout are typically charcoal or a medium to dark grey. Using a contrasting grout color helps show off the design (whatever you may have chosen). White grout only hides the dimensions and blurs the edges.
A quick tip for those considering using white grout is to make sure you use white thinset instead of the standard grey thinset mortar. This will make cleaning your grout joints of excess mortar unnecessary and save you time and effort.
Do the extra time to figure out your layout ahead of time before you start slapping tiles up against the wall. Try to have the tiles centered on the wall so the corners don’t end up with any slivers of a tile. Subway tile is designed with symmetry in mind so work hard to keep that symmetry as a part of your layout even when changing from one wall to another.
That’s about it. You know pretty much everything you need now to pick out your subway tile and create a timeless bathroom, kitchen, or backsplash with one of the most enduring tile styles in American history. The question now is, what will you create?
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We all know that subway tile is a popular choice in home design, but that doesn’t mean it is “trendy” or that it will go out of style any time soon. It is a classic, timeless, and beautiful option for your home.
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Learn where to use it, how to choose the perfect grout color, plus eight design patterns for how to lay it.
Classic subway tile has been a design staple in homes for decades – and it’s no wonder why! It is inexpensive, easy to clean, and it looks great with any design style.
Subway tile was first introduced in 1904, when it was used in the New York City subway. Designers La Farge and Heins wanted to create clean, bright subway stations underground, and that’s just what this amazing tile accomplished.
Interior designers soon recognized its many applications, and subway tile began to appear in homes everywhere. Not to mention it was everywhere in homes, from bathrooms to kitchens to laundry rooms and more!
I’ve used subway tile in my own home to create a classic, calming spa bath and a bright and airy kitchen renovation. We’ll soon be using it again in an upcoming lake cottage kitchen makeover. You can also read about hexagon tile here!
Check out the befores – you won’t believe the difference some clean, white subway tile makes! It’s a great alternative to beadboard backsplash for a timeless kitchen.
Subway tile has traditionally been a white 3 x 6 glazed ceramic tile, but with its popularity that definition has evolved to include more sizes, colors, and materials.
Today, subway tile includes any wall tile that is twice as long as it is wide – 2 x 4, 4 x 8, 6 x 12, etc. It can even include tiles that aren’t exactly that ratio, such as 4 x 10 or 4 x 12. If it is a long, narrow rectangular shape, it probably counts as subway tile.
I love the look of classic white, but subway tile comes in any color you can imagine! Deep blues and greens, subtle grays, bright corals – whatever your design style, you can match it with this tile!
Glazed ceramic tile is still a popular option for subway tile, but it is no longer the only option. This versatile tile comes in porcelain, glass, and a variety of natural stone, such as marble, travertine, limestone, and slate.
The stone can be polished or honed for a glossy or matte finish. Really, the possibilities are almost endless, so you’re sure to find something you truly love!
Subway tile can be used in so many different spaces throughout your home. It looks clean and fresh wherever it’s found, and it adds instant style to any space.
Subway tile is perfect for kitchen backsplashes. It is stain resistant and so easy to clean for those small drips and spills that happen in kitchens. Sometimes it isn’t easy to find ways to work a lot of style into kitchens, because everything in them has to be so functional.
Having fun with a unique subway tile backsplash is the perfect way to pack a lot of style into a small space. Function and style – subway tile checks both boxes!
Tile in general is a great choice for bathrooms, where there is a lot of moisture in the air. It’s easy to clean and disinfect, which we all know is a must in bathrooms.
Try using it as a backsplash to your bathroom countertop. Run it partway up your wall for a timeless wainscoting. Or create a dramatic feature wall with subway tile to the ceiling. Wherever you use it, you can’t go wrong with this tile.
I love clean white tile in a shower, but I’ve seen some beautiful, dark and moody showers as well. Tile is a great material in showers, but subway tile in particular is perfect, since its long shape can make small spaces appear larger. Run it horizontally to make your shower feel wider or vertically to make your space appear taller.
If you want mostly neutral with a little flair, you can use a second color to create an accent row or niche. Showers are sometimes overlooked spaces, but choosing the right tile and pattern means you’ll end up with a unique design that is truly your own.
Important Note: Subway tile is not suitable to use on floors. Because its width is relatively thin compared to its length, it simply won’t hold up to normal use, and it will end up cracking in the center.
Once you’ve chosen your tile, it may seem like the hard work is done. But choosing the right grout can make or break your design. When choosing grout, you need to think about three things – color, spacing, and visual impact.
What look are you going for? Do you want your tile and grout to be subtle and blend together? Or do you want them to be bold and contrast with each other?
Which do you want to be the star of the show – the tile color or the grout lines? Having an idea of what you’re hoping to achieve will help you make the right choice.
Don’t miss the Best Grout Cleaner and How to Stain Grout – two of my most popular tile posts! Learn more about Choosing Grout Colors here.
The effect you want your grout color to have depends on the color of your tile. If you want to have an understated, calming finished product, choose a grout color that is closely related to your tile color. It doesn’t have to be the same color, but it should look subtle when held up side by side. It will give you subtle contrast and lightly define the shape and pattern of your tile.
If you want a dramatic finished look, choose a grout color that contrasts with your tile color. For example, dark grey grout with white tile, or white grout with dark tile. The more contrasting your grout color is, the more attention it will grab from your tile. That’s fine, if it’s the look you’re going for. Just know that contrasting grout shows off the shape and pattern of the tile more than the tile itself.
One more note: Bright white grout can make even white tiles look dingy. Plus its harder to keep clean. It may be best to choose a soft white grout, or even a very light grey.
Choosing the spacing between your tiles goes hand in hand with choosing your grout color. If you are trying to create higher visual contrast, you may want to consider wider grout lines.
They will give you a more dramatic look. If you’re trying to have a more subtle overall look, go with narrower spacing. You can still achieve contrast through the color you choose, but it will be more understated with narrow spacing.
The color and width of your grout work together to create its visual impact on the space. This just means how much attention it demands in a space. If you want your backsplash or shower to steal the show, go ahead and create a high contrast using grout. If you’d rather have it be a supporting character, choose a color that will help it blend in to the background a bit more.
Remember, blending in doesn’t mean boring. Even subtle tile creates a beautiful layer in a room. You can add visual interest in other ways, such as textiles and accessories.
Here’s how to choose the right type of grout for the job:
For any grout lines wider than 1/8-inch, make sure to use sanded grout. The sand particles bind together and make a more stable joint. Sanded grout can scratch, so it is best not to use it on delicate materials.
For very thin grout lines 1/8-inch and narrower, use unsanded grout. It’s ideal for showers, and it is soft enough to use on delicate tiles, such as glass, marble, and polished stone.
One of the best qualities of subway tile is that it can be used to create countless different patterns, each creating a unique look and design style. Do you want classic and fresh? Modern and minimal? Here are some popular subway tile patterns to consider:
This is probably the most timeless subway tile pattern. It’s the basic brick pattern – tiles are laid horizontally with the edge of one tile lining up with the center of the tiles above and below it.
This tile pattern is similar to the running bond, except instead of tiles lining up at the halfway point, they line up at 1/3 the length of the tiles above and below. This creates the illusion of steep stair steps running up the grout lines.
Create this pattern in the same way as the other two offsets, except line the edges of the tiles 1/4 of the length of the tiles above and below. So from the first row, offset the next row by 1/4, then 1/2, then 3/4, then you’re back to lining it up with the first row. You’ll create the illusion of irregularity, but it won’t look chaotic.
This one is for all of you who love a minimal, modern look. Simply line the tiles horizontally on top of each other so that they all line up, with no offsetting. You’ll end up with clean horizontal and vertical lines that look refreshingly uncluttered.
Another modern option, this is the same as the Straight Set, just turned on its side. Lay the subway tiles side by side running vertically up the wall. You’ll end up with vertical stripes! This pattern is perfect for any space with a low ceiling, since it will make it feel taller and more spacious.
This tile pattern is popular and timeless at the same time. It’s created by laying a tile at a 45-degree angle, then laying the second tile in an L-shape against its short side, so that their end joints line up. Continue laying tiles at 45-degrees, matching their end joints, to create an interwoven look.
This is a modern twist on the classic herringbone pattern. It’s created in the same way, except rotated so the tiles are laid vertically and horizontally instead of at 45-degree angles.
Start by laying your first tile vertically. Lay your second tile horizontally against its short end, matching up end joints. Lay your third tile vertically so its short side rests against the long side of tile 2, with their end joints lining up. You should be creating what looks like a stair step up your wall.
This pattern only works if your subway tiles are truly an even ratio – two or three times as long as they are wide. Basically, create “squares” by laying tiles horizontally on top of each other, then vertically next to each other. Then alternate between horizontal and vertical “squares” to create a woven grid effect.
The cost of subway tile varies greatly depending on the size and material of tile you choose. It can range from as low as $.15 per square foot for small, inexpensive ceramic tiles to $17 per square foot for high-quality marble. On average, subway tile costs between $5 – $13 per square foot. Grout and sealer add about $1.50 per square foot.
The good news is that most spaces you’ll be finishing with subway tile aren’t that big! A kitchen backsplash may be no bigger than 100 square feet. That’s the perfect place to splurge on your favorite tile, since the overall cost will still be fairly low.
The biggest expense with tile is the labor. Tile contractors may charge from $40 – $150 per hour, depending on where you live. That can add up! Many people still choose to hire the job out, because even though it isn’t necessarily hard to DIY subway tile, it still takes time and know how.
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Measure the length and width of your walls, then multiply those lengths and widths together. This is the area you will need to cover with tile. Add 10% to that number to account for end pieces and errors.
Do I need to use spacers when I tile?The short answer is yes! Spacers keep all of your grout lines even, especially at the corners. They also keep tiles from shifting while you work. Some tiles made for shower and backsplash applications have built-in spacers. These look like a couple of tiny bumps on each edge of the tile. If your tiles have these, you can push them up against each other without spacers. This will create very narrow grout lines.
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