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We get a lot of questions from people new to chalk paint who want to know if it truly is a no-prep paint. And the answer is yes and no.
Chalk paint adheres to furniture beautifully without the use of primer and (usually) no sanding. A quick cleaning is typically all you need. With that being said, there’s very rarely a piece of furniture that goes through our shop that doesn’t need some type of prep work before paint. Because when you’re working with used furniture, it’s typically been loved on for quite a few years. It’s scratched and peeling and dirty, and if you just whip out a brush and start painting, you probably won’t end up with the best results. So we decided to put together a list of things to look for before you start painting furniture pieces and how to fix them.
Chalk paint adheres to furniture beautifully without the use of primer and (usually) no sanding. A quick cleaning is typically all you need. With that being said, there’s very rarely a piece of furniture that goes through our shop that doesn’t need some type of prep work before paint. Because when you’re working with used furniture, it’s typically been loved on for quite a few years. It’s scratched and peeling and dirty, and if you just whip out a brush and start painting, you probably won’t end up with the best results. So we decided to put together a list of things to look for before you start painting furniture pieces and how to fix them.
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A Rough Surface
The first is the most obvious. When your piece has deep scratches, gouges or an uneven finish, it needs to be filled and/or sanded. Chalk paint is a thicker paint and can cover minor unevenness in the finish, but for the most part if you start with a rough surface, you’re still going to have a rough surface after paint.
The Fix:
Fill deep scratches with wood filler. Elmer’s Color Change Wood Filler is our favorite. It has a smooth consistency, is easy to work with and dries quickly. It also goes on purple and dries light tan or white so it’s easy to see when it’s dry. Sand it smooth when dry and you’re ready to go.
If a large portion of the surface is rough, flaky, or it has a sloppy existing paint job with lots of drip marks, we’ll smooth it out with our favorite sander. We have three different power sanders and this one is by far my favorite. I rarely get the other two off the shelf. Trust me on this one. Best. Sander. Ever.
Loose Or Peeling Veneer
If your piece has veneer, carefully check to make sure none of the veneer is loose or peeling. Any loose veneer needs to be fixed or removed prior to painting.
The Fix:
We wrote a step by step tutorial for filling missing veneer with Bondo here. In addition to that technique, you can also use regular wood filler to fill small missing sections.
If the veneer is too far gone to try repairing it, your best bet it to completely remove it. Most pieces have solid wood under the veneer so you can just remove it and paint the wood underneath without replacing the veneer. To remove the veneer pull off the loose sections. Then place a damp towel over the remaining sections. Let it hang out for a bit and it will help loosen the glue. If it’s really stubborn, you can use a hot iron over the damp towel to steam it and loosen the glue.
Wood Tannins Bleeding Through The Paint
Certain types of wood and some water stains will bleed through paint.
The Fix:
If there’s just a small spot or two that’s bleeding, an easy fix it to spray it with a couple coats of Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac. We love this stuff and always have it on hand. If it’s more than just a spot or two, or if I have a hunch before I get started that it’s going to bleed, I prime the entire piece with a paint-on primer like Zinsser Bulls Eye 123.
Sometimes you don’t realize it’s going to be a bleeder until you already have a coat of paint on it and can see the stain seeping through. Not to worry, you can prime right over your existing coat of paint (both paint on and spray primers), then keep painting when your primer is dry. I typically do two coats of primer on bleeders, but every once in a while you’ll have a piece that needs more.
Oily Surfaces
If your piece has an oily finish, has been repeatedly cleaned with Pledge, or just has a super slick and shiny surface, your paint may not stick well.
The Fix:
There’s a few to choose from. If the surface is oily or has a lot of residue, try wiping it down with Odorless Mineral Spirits. For slick/shiny surfaces, clean it first then give it a couple coats of primer. Or if it’s a real problem piece, you might have to sand it down to the raw wood.
I recently painted the table in the photo above with chalk paint and the paint literally peeled off with my fingernails. This has never happened to me before and I have no clue what was on the surface. I ended up sanding it down to raw wood then gave it two coats of shellac before repainting it. I had no problems the second time around but I was kicking myself for not prepping properly and the wasted time and paint used.
Hardware Changes
Sometimes the existing hardware leaves an indentation in the wood. If you’re planning to change out the hardware, you’ll want to smooth out those indentations so they’re not visible around the new hardware.
The Fix:
If you’re reusing the same hardware, or if the new hardware is large enough to cover the indentations, you don’t have to do anything. If you do need to fix it, sometimes a light sanding will even it out, or you can use wood filler.
One more word about hardware changes… if you’re just changing out a knob with a single screw, you’re fine. But if you’re replacing handles with two screws on the back, keep in mind that the distance between the screws is different on a lot of hardware, and your new hardware will probably not fit in the existing holes. I recommend trying to find your new handles before you start painting. If they happen to fit in the existing holes, you’re good. If not, you can fill them in with wood filler before you start painting. If you don’t have your new hardware yet, I would consider just filling the holes before you start painting. There is nothing worse than finishing a gorgeous paint job only to find out your new hardware doesn’t fit in the existing holes and now you have to fill, sand, and repaint the old holes. I’ve been known to drag a whole drawer into Hobby Lobby to choose new hardware. We have a huge list of places to find furniture hardware here.
Smelly Furniture
Some used furniture pieces smell really musty or like cigarette smoke. The best remedy I’ve found for stinky furniture is a thorough cleaning and some time to bake in the sun. If that doesn’t work and you’re having trouble ridding the odor, try just going ahead and priming and painting the whole piece, inside and out. Often times a good primer will seal in the odors. Zinsser BIN is supposed to be better at sealing in odors than Zinsser 123. They’re both paint-on primers, but BIN is shellac based and 123 is water based. I will say that BIN is not my favorite primer to work with because it’s super thin and runny, and because it’s not water based so not as easy to cleanup. But, since we’re talking about stink-blocking factor, I thought I should mention it.
Moral of the story: We love chalk paint. It’s a fantastic product, but your finished piece will only be as good as the base you started with. Taking a little extra time at the beginning will ensure your finished piece will look beautiful and professional.
Have a question about prepping for chalk paint that we didn’t cover? Leave a comment or feel free to email us with your questions.
Looking for more info on chalk paint? Check out our Chalk Paint FAQ’s and our Chalk Paint Tips For Beginners.
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Has the time arrived for renovation projects at your home? Perhaps part of that process will be removing old paint, which can be intimidating. Thankfully, there are plenty of ways to safely strip paint.
Some paint strippers are hazardous, but knowing where to start makes things much easier. Here are the most common types of paint strippers and the best safe paint stripping techniques for different surfaces.
Before getting started on any paint stripping project, make sure to prepare a clean space that is safely away from children and pets. Protective clothing is a good idea no matter what method you are using, including a long-sleeved shirt, gloves and closed-toed shoes. You may also need eye protection depending on the paint stripper you are using.
Additionally, it is good to know if the paint you are removing is lead-based. As a general rule, homes built before 1978, particularly those built before 1940, are likely to contain lead-based paint. If you are unsure whether or not the paint you want to remove is lead-based, the EPA recommends contacting a professional inspector to analyze it for you.
There are three main types of paint stripper: solvent-based, caustic-based and manual. Solvent-based paint strippers work by breaking the chemical bond between the paint and the surface it was applied to. Caustic-based strippers break down the paint itself. Manual techniques use tools to physically chip or melt paint away. Choosing the right method will often come down to the surface you’re working with.
Check the Ingredients
It is important to carefully check the ingredients in solvent-based and caustic-based paint thinners before using them. Solvent-based paint strippers, in particular, may contain potentially harmful components that will require extra caution to handle.
One ingredient to look out for is methylene chloride, which is illegal for use in consumer paint strippers in many regions. This chemical is dangerous and should only be used by professionals, if at all. NMP, n-methyl pyrrolidone, is a similarly dangerous chemical often found in paint strippers. Both of these ingredients are hazardous enough to be lethal under certain circumstances. The EPA is working to ban them in the U.S., but you can still find paint strippers containing these hazards on store shelves today.
There are much safer paint stripper options on the market that contain other active ingredients. Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) has become more popular since it has a low level of toxicity, making it a safe replacement for methylene chloride and NMP. Opting for a safe active ingredient like DMSO or a manual paint stripping method will be far safer than risking NMP or methylene chloride.
Eco-Friendly Paint Strippers
New paint strippers have been developed that are specifically designed not to harm the environment. Chemicals found in conventional paint strippers can be deadly to plants and animals. Soy- and citrus-based paint strippers are popular examples of eco-friendly options.
The great thing about these paint strippers is that they are often more effective than many conventional options. They don’t contain methylene chloride, either, making soy and citrus-based solutions safe choices. If you are bothered by odors, citrus-based mixtures may be a good way to go since they usually have a fresh lemon or orange scent.
Manual and Homemade Paint Strippers
Liquid and gel paint strippers aren’t your only options. There are some manual and homemade ways to safely strip paint, as well. For example, using a paint scraper to chip away paint is often one of the safest methods since no chemicals are involved. You will just need to carefully clean up the dust and chips from the paint as you scrape it off.
Similarly, boiling a mixture of baking soda and water can create an effective homemade paint stripper. This tactic only works on metal, but it’s still a great way to strip paint, especially if you’re looking for a cost-effective solution.
Wood is one of the most common surfaces people want to strip paint from safely. It is usually an easy surface to work with, but you’ll want to ensure you don’t accidentally damage the wood itself, the grain or any staining. Generally, caustic-based options are never safe for stripping paint off wood, particularly hardwood. They can cause permanent damage and will even turn hardwood black.
Chemical Wood-Safe Paint Strippers
The best safe paint strippers for wood are usually solvent-based chemical solutions. For example, a soy-based solvent paint stripper would work fine for most types of paint and wood. You should do a patch test before using any paint stripper on wood. This ensures you’re safely stripping paint away without unintentionally harming the wood beneath. To do a patch test, place a small portion of paint stripper on a corner or edge of the painted wood and see how it responds. Some chemical paint strippers require a wait time for the full effect.
Manual Wood-Safe Paint Strippers
Sandblasting should be avoided since it is usually too harsh for wood. Instead, you may be able to use a scraper to manually strip paint off wood. This tactic works best on paint that is already in poor condition. Remember to be gentle with the scraper – you don’t want to accidentally chip or scratch the wood.
Metal and plastic surfaces are typically more resilient than wood when safely stripping paint. You will probably want to avoid using a heat gun to melt paint from metal and especially plastic. Heat guns are fairly safe and effective when used on a low setting. However, if the gun is too hot, it can warp metal and melt plastic. Otherwise, metal and plastic surfaces can stand up to most paint strippers.
Homemade Paint Stripper
One of the best safe paint strippers for metal and plastic is a homemade mixture of boiled water and baking soda. This is an especially good trick for getting paint off metal tools. To create this homemade paint stripper, find an old pot that you don’t mind permanently removing from your collection. Once you use it to make a paint stripper, it won’t be safe for cooking anymore.
Fill the pot with water and heat it until it is simmering or boiling. You’ll want to add plenty of baking soda, but no specific ratio is needed. Carefully put the tool or object you want to remove paint from in the pot and let it sit with the mixture simmering for 15 to 20 minutes. Afterward, it should be easy to peel or gently scrape away any remaining paint.
Chemical Paint Strippers
Caustic or solvent-based chemical paint strippers are usually fine for use with metal and plastic. However, it’s important to note that some caustic paint strippers can damage aluminum. Always check the ingredients list before buying to make sure you are getting a safe paint stripper free of dangerous chemicals. It’s also a good idea to work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area when stripping paint from either metal or plastic. This will help prevent illness from any fumes the process creates.
Masonry may not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of paint stripping. Still, it is actually an important part of any home renovation or remodel, especially for historic or brick houses. For example, you may want to restore vintage masonry to its original aesthetic by removing a coat of paint from it and giving it a good cleaning.
The best way to do this is with a gentle chemical paint stripper. You can use a soft-bristled brush to safely strip paint from brickwork, concrete, limestone and other masonry surfaces without damaging them. It is important to note that acid-based options are not safe paint strippers for limestone, which is highly sensitive to acidic substances.
Light sandblasting is often fine for masonry that isn’t particularly detailed or fragile. Remember to wear a mask or other face and eye protection when sandblasting paint, though. Similarly, power-washing is not a good idea for masonry surfaces that you want to keep in pristine shape.
Every DIYer should know how to safely strip paint off various surfaces. Eco-friendly paint strippers are often a safe and reliable option. Just remember to keep an eye out for hazardous chemicals and practice paint stripping safety, including wearing hand and eye protection. Once you know the needs of the surface you are working with, safe paint stripping is a straightforward process.
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