A plastic water tank is a container made to store and deliver water for various uses and work settings that has been manufactured from the synthetic material known as plastic. The types of plastics used to make water tanks are polyethylene and polypropylene, with polyethylene being more popular.
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Plastic water tanks are engineered to safely and securely handle small to large volumes of water. Depending on the plastic water tank type, they are made to handle either potable or non-potable water. Plastic water tanks are manufactured in a range of styles and volume sizes to match up and meet the needs of different applications.
Most modern water tanks are made from either plastic or metal. Plastic water tanks are typically made from polyethylene, polypropylene or fiberglass reinforced plastic (abbreviated FRP, also often listed just as fiberglass for short). Polyethylene water tanks are by far the most common in use across applications today. In the manufacture of polyethylene water tanks, the materials used are the raw plastic known as resin, ultraviolet stabilizing compounds usually carbon black or titanium dioxide, and a color pigmentation compound if the tank is to be any color other than white.
Polyethylene plastic is manufactured in various density types, with the most common being low density (LDPE), medium density (MDPE) and high density (HDPE). These types can also be listed as linear polyethylene &#; low density linear polyethylene, medium density linear polyethylene, and high-density linear polyethylene. Note, these are used to indicate different types of the same base plastic material. Most plastic water tanks made from polyethylene are fabricated from high density polyethylene.
Polyethylene can also be manufactured differently to produce cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE). XLPE is not commonly rated or approved for use in water storage, more specifically, potable water storage. XLPE plastic tanks are most used to store chemicals. Metal water tanks are made from either galvanized steel or stainless steel.
Metal water tanks offer a long lasting, highly durable water storage solution with a volume range capable of far exceeding plastic tanks. However, metal water tanks are often much more expensive versus plastic water tanks. Depending on the metal tank size and manufacturer, a metal water tank may still feature a food grade polyethylene plastic liner designed to hold the water within the metal shell.
How plastic water tanks are made depends on the raw plastic material used as well as the particular type of water tank. Plastic water tanks are made through specific production processes that use a mold that sets the shape, size, and design of the water tank to be made. The most common plastic water tank manufacturing processes are rotational molding and blow molding.
Rotational molding, also known as rotomolding and rotocasting, is used to make most rigid-walled water tanks such as vertical tanks, underground cisterns, utility tanks, and rainwater tanks. Rotomolding uses powdered raw plastic resin, a product mold, heat and a rotating equipment apparatus. Plastic resin is placed in the mold, heated to the resin&#;s melting point, and rotated in a mechanical pattern designed to distribute the molten plastic material throughout the mold to create the desired product to a certified thickness per engineering standards. After molding, the product is cooled and then released from the mold, yielding a water tank that is both effective and certified for use in storing water.
Blow molding is used to make water tanks that have semi-flexible walls such as the 275 gallon tote and 330 gallon caged IBC totes. Blow mold plastic manufacturing uses an openable product mold, heat and a resin delivery apparatus that uses air. Resin is heated to molten temperatures and air is used to blow the heated plastic resin into the product mold to form the outer walls of the container and leave a hollow interior.
Yes, plastic water tanks and the materials used to make them have been thoroughly researched, engineered, tested and certified for safety. They are safe for use and reuse in providing water, storing water long term, standing up against the elements, workplace conditions, and safe for long term placement, installation and use.
The polyethylene plastic material used to make water tanks is rated as inert by U.S. national safety standards for use with water for the lifespan of the container. Being inert means polyethylene will not affect water quality, will not leach chemicals of any kind into the water when stored, nor be affected itself by any reactivity with the water.
Certification and approvals can vary by product but often include the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR), the National Sanitation Foundation (NSF), and the American National Standards Institute (ANSI).
No, poly water tanks do not contain BPA or phthalates. Bisphenol A (BPA) and phthalates have never been used in the production of plastic water tanks fabricated from polyethylene resins. The use of BPA was largely reserved for polycarbonate materials but has seen considerable phase-out in production due to BPA&#;s known health concerns.
Phthalates are a chemical often intentionally added to plastics to increase their strength in flexibility. They are most used in plastic products made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and are uncommon in products made from polyethylene. This especially includes poly water tanks as U.S. health and safety standards restrict phthalates from potable water containers. See the CDC for more info on phthalates.
When shopping for modern water tanks made from polyethylene, rest assured and know the containers we offer are safe and approved to be free from BPA, phthalates or any other harmful materials of concern. Our water tanks are rated and certified to ANSI and NSF 61 standards for drinking water use.
Compared to many other materials types, plastic poly water tanks are lighter in weight, lower in cost, easier to install, easier to transport and relocate, have improved weatherability, improved resistance to corrosion, will not rust, and resist damage from impacts and drops.
When used exclusively for holding water and well cared for, polyethylene tanks offer a significant service life, and when combined with a low purchase price, provide an unbeatable cost-to-service life.
Only plastic water tanks manufactured from FDA approved food grade, virgin polyethylene resin that have been ANSI, NSF 61 certified are considered safe and acceptable to drink from. Such water tanks are known as potable grade water tanks. Polyethylene plastic as a material and when certified to these standards, has been extensively tested for safety and used for direct food contact uses for many years across industries and applications.
There are some plastic water tanks that are not certified for potable water and considered non-potable grade water tanks. The reason they are considered non-potable is most often due to specific additives or colorant added to the tank during manufacture. Yellow water tanks are the most common non-potable plastic water tanks and are often used in agriculture.
Polyethylene plastic water storage tanks are available in the following types:
Plastic water tanks are also made as on-board vehicle water tanks for recreational vehicles (RVs) and boats.
Yes, the available size range for water tanks will vary extensively by the type of water tank. Polyethylene water tanks are commonly manufactured in gallon capacities from 1 gallon up to 20,000 gallons. The full range of volume sizes is not available for each water tank mold style, so some tank types can hold more water than others. Each water tank style will have its own offerings in gallon sizes depending on its selective engineering.
Below is an overview of general size ranges for the most common water tank types:
The water tank best suited for use at home will depend on the intended application for the water tank. Common water tanks used at home are vertical storage tanks, underground cisterns, rainwater tanks, slimline / doorway tanks, emergency water tanks, and portable water tanks.
Vertical storage tanks are good for an overall range of uses, are best for large water volume needs and permanent to semi-permanent installations. Our selection of vertical water tanks can be found here.
Cisterns are best for long term underground water storage systems, the benefits of underground installation, and are often used in well water and rainwater applications. Our selection of underground cisterns tanks can be found here.
Rainwater tanks are best for rainwater harvesting systems and use as they come ready for easy setup and use. Our selection of rainwater collection tanks can be found here.
Slimline tanks are best for situations or properties with limited or restricted space that makes installing larger tanks difficult. Our selection of slimline doorway tanks can be found here.
Emergency water tanks are best for allowing installation and water storage indoors and providing reserve water in disaster preparedness and water shortage applications. Our selection of emergency water tanks can be found here.
Portable water tanks are best when water needs to be transported by a vehicle from location to location for different uses. Our selection of portable water tanks can be found here.
Polyethylene water tank colors include white, black, green, blue, brown, red, and yellow. Green, blue, brown and red are also often available in various shades such as mist green, dark green, brick red, light brown, etc. Metal water tanks made from steel and stainless steel are often the natural color of the steel. Some metal water tank suppliers offer their products in various colors or design options. Green water storage tanks as well as black water storage tanks are the more popular and commonly used tank colors.
Yes and no, the color of a water tank can indicate tank quality, but it can also depend. When referring to polyethylene water tanks, there are only two quality grades to consider and that color can relate to: 1) potable for drinking water uses, also known as food grade, and; 2) non-potable for non-drinking water uses, also known as non-food grade.
Most water tank manufacturers and distributors clearly list the tank grade for sale. Most often, potable grade water tank colors are white, black, green, blue, beige and sometimes red. The most common non-potable grade water tank color is yellow. Note, this may not always be the case as non-potable grade water tanks can sometimes be available in black, green and other colors as well.
Yes, the color of a water tank can affect the rate and extent of algae growth inside the water tank. However, this is actually more dependent on the opacity of the tank rather than its color, yet these two concepts do go hand-in-hand. Tank opacity relates to the amount of sunlight that makes it through the tank walls and reaches the stored water. The more sunlight passing through a poly tank&#;s walls, the more algae that will be able to grow.
Tanks that are lighter in color are often less opaque, making them more translucent, meaning they let more sunlight through the tank walls. White colored water tanks are often the most translucent of all available water tank colors and therefore frequently experience the greatest amount of algae growth.
Water tanks that are darker in color are often more opaque, making them less translucent, reducing the amount of sunlight capable of passing through the tank walls, if not eliminating it altogether. Black and dark green water tanks are the most effective in reducing algae growth in long term water storage.
Many black and dark green water tanks can completely block incoming sunlight. If no sunlight makes it through, there will not be any algae growth in the water, even long term.
On a sunny day, slightly open the lid and peek into the poly tank. If the inside walls are illuminated, this means light is coming in and algae may eventually grow in the stored water. If you do not see light, then the tank has been manufactured in a way that blocks sunlight and algae should not grow in the tank.
Plastic water tank sizes and prices depend on the type of water tank. For vertical water storage tanks, sizes between 250 gallons and 4,500 gallons are the most common with prices ranging between $400 to $4,000. The following table is an overview of common plastic water tank sizes and prices by type of tank. Note, prices are average approximations of potential cost expectations, but are an excellent starting point to get an idea on water tank pricing.
Yes, a plastic water tank can be repaired depending on the extent of the damage and the type of repair needed. For large tears or cracks greater than 12 inches in length, it is recommended to replace the water tank instead of trying a repair. Repair for such large damages will most likely be a temporary fix at best before the damage will return (and often if not worse than before). At this point, tank failure should be expected to eventually occur.
Repairing a leaking water tank at home is recommended to be performed by a licensed professional. However, it can be performed DIY if you have the right tools, materials and if the damage to be repaired is not too large. Cracks or tears in a water tank wall larger than 12 inches, especially when near the bottom, are often considered too large for a long-term repair and recommendations are to replace the water tank.
If trying to DIY repair a cracked poly water tank, we have outlined the tools needed and the best recommended method below.
Prior to the repair, it is important to make sure the tank is clean and dry on both the inside and outside of the tank. Drain the tank completely or beneath the point of the damage. Clean the surface with soap, water, a rag and/or pressurized air. Use whatever extent necessary to provide a clean, dry working surface as water, dirt, oil, dust can all potentially affect the effectiveness of the plastic repair.
It is recommended to move the tank inside, if possible, and away from wind, rain, and colder temperatures. The poly welding gun and repair epoxy are heat-operated, heat-activated, and heat-sensitive.
When the damaged tank area is clean and dry, use the drill and 1/8 inch drill bit to add two solitary holes: one above the crack and one below. These holes help distribute the stress weight associated with the damage and help prevent the damage from spreading further.
Use the rotary tool to sand out a V-shaped groove in the damaged area. For this step, use the abrasive attachment head to sand grooves 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch deep the length of the crack.
After cleaning, drilling, and sanding, the next step is to use the plastic repair epoxy and welding gun. Always follow the directions labeled on the epoxy as it can vary by product and gun type. Ensure the welding gun is plugged in, heated and ready for use; heating may take 10-15 minutes. It is recommended to heat the damaged area to above room temperature; a hair dryer can be used for this step.
If using welding rods, cut one end of the rod to a point and load into the preheated welding gun. When ready to weld, place the welding gun tip at one end of the v-shaped damage groove, apply light pressure, and slowly move the tool from one end to the other, feeding weld material as needed.
After the first welding pass, heat the welding material added to the damage to a smooth glaze. This allows the material to properly bond. The heat from the welding tool or a hair dryer can achieve this. For depper damages, a second weld may be needed. If the weld doesn&#;t seem to fill the damage groove or seems unsatisfactory, perform the welding process a second time.
When welding is complete, allow the water tank repair to cool and dry as long as recommended per the product label before using your water tank again.
Yes, a polyethylene water tank can be painted. Applying paint to a water tank exterior will not affect water quality or tank integrity. Painting a polyethylene water tank requires tank preparation and the right type of paint.
Painting polyethylene can be difficult to have the paint apply and adhere long term. Without proper preparation of the tank surface or the right paint, most paint will remain only for a short time if not begin to immediately crack, chip and/or peel on drying. This happens due to adhesion incompatibility between the paint and polyethylene surface as well as the regular expansion and shrinking experienced by poly water tanks.
Polyethylene water tanks have a high rate of thermal contraction and expansion that causes the tank to shrink when cooled and expand when heated. Keeping paint on a surface that is regularly changing due to ambient temperature fluctuations can be difficult and may occasionally require touch-up paint or full repainting.
To paint a polyethylene water tank, the surface of the tank needs to be prepared to have the best painting results. Proper preparation requires removing the tank&#;s glossy, wax type surface if present, as well as ensuring the surface is clean and dry. Some polyethylene water tanks may not feature a glossy surface or may have lost it already over time due to age and/or sun exposure.
There are three recommendations on how to prepare polyethylene for painting.
There are three recommended paint types for use on polyethylene.
Elastomeric and latex paint options are the top recommendations for painting polyethylene due to the improved flexibility characteristics of these paint types.
Note, even with the preparation and recommended paint types, it is still possible the paint will not remain indefinitely and may eventually experience peeling and need reapplication.
Typically, yes. This question can refer to two distinct concepts concerning sidewall thickness common to plastic water tanks. A plastic water tank varying in thickness can refer to either the uniformity / consistency of material thickness in an individual tank or between different tanks, as from different manufacturers. In both circumstances, a water tank can, and often will, vary in how thick it is.
Concerning wall uniformity in an individual tank, it is an intentional practice of the polyethylene water tank manufacturing process to rotationally weld different parts and locations to different thicknesses. This is by engineering design to ensure the tank meets the criteria established per codes and regulations to withstand the pressures, weights and performance stressors associated with its use. On a well-manufactured poly water tank, the top, bottom and sidewalls will all differ in their respective thicknesses. Sidewalls will be of varying thickness from top to bottom, the tank&#;s bottom will be the thinnest across the tank and the top will be similar to the side walls.
Different manufacturers can produce same volume sized water tanks to each other but differ in how thick they are. The reason for the difference is often in the raw material polyethylene resin choice, its quality, as well as the steps and design used in the rotational molding process for the water tank. A lower quality resin will require more resin than a tank produced with higher quality resin to yield the same design, safety and engineering performance standards. The result will be thicker walls and a heavier tank.
The reason water tanks with the same volume can have different weights is often due to how thick the tank is, that is, how much material is used to manufacture the tank. Water tanks that are heavier than another with the same volume for the same water tank type often have been made with more raw material than the lighter tank. The reason for this is often because a raw material that is poorer in quality is used to make the tank.
Another reason for the weight difference can be from engineering design differences between the same volume tanks. However, if the tanks are fairly identical in design, but have a significant weight difference, it is most likely due to how thick the tank is due to the quality of the polyethylene resin used to make the tank.
Yes, but not for the reasons usually thought. The thickness of a water tank matters most in terms of manufacturing quality between different companies and the select resin options used in the production of their polyethylene water tanks. Just because a company provides a water tank that has thicker walls does not necessary mean that the tank is of better quality. Many times this can actually mean the opposite as an increased amount of lower quality resin may have to be used to produce a water tank that meets the engineering design criteria required per regulatory oversight and standards for the specific water gallon size in order to hold water safely. A thicker tank can often be noticed from a difference in the total tank weight between water tanks of the same volume capacity.
Yes, two or more water tanks can be joined together in sequence in a step-by-step style installation through the use of plumbing. Tanks can be joined from the top or from the bottom. Joining two or more water tanks together is a common practice to increase the amount of total water storage per location as well as for certain water handling and distribution systems.
Joining water tanks together is also often done to add onto and expand an already existing water tank system. To join two or more water tanks together, you will need the additional fitting or fittings, the tanks to be joined and the piping to connect them.
Most water tanks have what are called &#;fitting flats&#; included in the design of the finished molded water tank product. These &#;fitting flats&#; are flat and level locations made for installing additional fittings, such as bulkheads, and allow more plumbing connections to be made to the tank. They are in addition to the one, (often two), fitting connection ports that come standard on most water tanks. &#;Fitting flats&#; are often located toward the top of the tank but are sometimes located along the tank sidewalls. In both cases, they are usually at a distance 90° to each other, sometimes 45°, sometimes 180° on vertical poly tanks. Technical drawing sheets for individual water tanks can be helpful in locating fitting flat locations if they are not apparent in the tank&#;s design.
Joining two or more water tanks together at the top will cause the tanks to fill up in sequence one-by-one after the other. In this method, tanks are often connected at a pre-set top inlet or a self-installed bulkhead. The first tank to receive water inflow will have to fill completely to the point of the plumbing connection before any water flows to fill the next tank and so on.
Due to gravity and air pressure, the maximum water level for all tanks in a top-connected system will be limited to the height of the tank-union outlet on the first tank. Due to this, best practice is to place the first tank at the highest land level location to maximize the water volume in the succeeding tanks.
When tapping water from this connection setup, water will only be drawn from the individual tank being tapped. This means water will deplete from one tank and remain the same in the others. A method to withdraw from all tanks collectively and keep water levels uniform is to connect all tanks together at their outlet taps and link this to a solitary outlet valve.
Joining two or more water tanks at the bottom will cause all connected tanks to fill up more or less evenly at the same time. To connect water tanks at the bottom means to use additional plumbing to join the tanks at their drain outlets. A system of tanks connected this way will only need one tap, usually at the lowest tank in the system. The lowest tank is the last tank in the plumbing sequence from the initial tank set to receive water. Due to laws in physics, when water is drawn from one tank, the water in all connected tanks will balance out until the entire system has an equal volume again.
Yes, a water pump can be used to either fill the tank with water or draw water from a water tank. Adding a pump to a water tank system is common practice in distributing water so that it has adequate pressure for uses around a home, business, or farm. Without a pump, water from a water tank may not have enough pressure for use by equipment, plumbing, in appliances, taps, or any other possible fixtures such as showers and toilets.
When adding a water pump, it is important to the safety and integrity of the water tank that the air / liquid cubic volume displacement rate of the pump does not exceed the venting capability of the water tank. If this isn&#;t checked and verified, or if it is overlooked, it can cause over-pressurization or a vacuum-type scenario within the water tank which can have damaging results to the tank, its fittings or connected plumbing.
For distribution applications with a water pump, also ensure the rate of water drawn from the tank will not exceed the tank&#;s vent capacity to replace the water volume pulled from the tank. These scenarios are more common in bulk filling or bulk distribution applications.
No, a polyethylene water tank is not engineered for pressurized applications, to function as a pressure vessel, or use in conditions that will create a vacuum inside the water container. Such scenarios can cause hazardous conditions for the water tank or plumbing system capable of collapsing the tank and/or causing damage to equipment or personnel. Normal pressure strains that arise from the use of a water pump are acceptable.
Yes, venting is important for water tanks to release any air pressure that can build up inside the tank when the tank is being filled. Pressure buildup within a tank can also be due to heating. To fix this, many polyethylene water tanks feature an automatic venting lid designed to self-regulate excessive pressure buildup inside the storage container.
A common reason for low water pressure or a change in water pressure is a leak, crack or damage somewhere in the storage tank or in the connected plumbing system. Water tanks are made to maintain a set pressure inside the container due to the force of atmospheric pressure and the tank&#;s self-venting lid. A crack in the water tank will affect the ability of the relatively sealed, closed system to maintain a stable pressure because it creates an additional opening for air and pressure changes.
It is possible for a crack to form on the top of the tank or above water level &#; where water may not leak and the damage could potentially go unnoticed. If you notice water pressure has changed from normal and unexpectedly from your water tank tap, check your tank and any attached plumbing for any leaks or cracks. Unnoticed damage could be the cause for the change in water pressure.
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Low water pressure from a water tank can also be the result of insufficient gravity pressure driving water flow to taps connected downstream as well as too many taps connected to the water tank. A potential fix is to relocate the water tank to a location with higher atmospheric elevation, such as on a hill. Another fix for low pressure is to install a water pump or booster pump within the plumbing system between the tank and tap.
Plastic water tanks can be purchased mostly online, at certain farm and hardware supply stores, and sometimes secondhand.
Buying a water tank online provides the benefits of a wider selection of options to choose from in terms of water tank styles and volume capacities, delivery, and guarantee that you are buying a brand new, quality water tank.
Prior to first use, it is recommended to flush rinse a water tank to clean out any potential residual dust or material from manufacturing.
Water tanks are recommended to be cleaned annually or more frequently depending on the quality of the water stored, the location and color of the tank (for algae), and the application the tank is being used for. Algae, biofilms, and build-ups from hard water (water with minerals or sediments) are the largest reasons why a water tank will need to be cleaned.
Water tanks can be recommended for cleaning every 6 months, once a year, or once every two years &#; it largely depends on the particular use case and conditions. Some applications can require a cleaning frequency more often than every 6 months, while other water tanks may be okay to go with rarely being cleaned.
Water quality is a large factor in the cleaning frequency for water tanks. A tank that holds water with an increased amount of sediment or trace minerals (such as unfiltered groundwater) may need to be cleaned more frequently than a rainwater tank with clean, soft water that results from an effective system. The first example may need more frequent cleaning due to the potential for sediment buildup in the tank that can affect water quality over time, in plumbing that can cause a clog or perhaps the trace minerals promote growth of algae or bacteria.
Water tank location and color can also affect how often a water tank needs cleaned. Water tanks installed indoors or away from direct sunlight will not experience as much algae growth. Dark colored water tanks can limit the amount of sunlight that makes it through or completely block sunlight. This will reduce or eliminate algae growth and therefore reduce the amount of cleaning that will be needed.
There are multiple ways to clean a water tank. Some companies make products designed to help clean water tanks. However, a water tank can be cleaned without these.
To clean a water tank: (1) drain, (2) clean, (3) rinse, and (4) disinfect the new water, if needed.
For more on cleaning water tanks, see our Poly Tanks Series post How to Clean a Water Storage Tank.
No. It is not necessary to disinfect and/or treat the water in a water tank prior to long term storage. Treatment can be performed shortly before the time when the water is to be used. However, not treating the water before storage can increase the dirtiness of the tank and water over its storage timeframe, which can lead to more work in water treatment as well as cleaning the tank. Often, this is due to algae build up or microbiological growth. Treating and/or disinfecting a water tank supply prior to storing can help keep the tank cleaner and ensure your water is safe for use when it is needed.
Rainwater harvesting is the practice of capturing, storing and using rainfall. Using a rainwater harvesting water tank can reduce your water bill, provide a sense of self-sufficiency, help with local water shortages, and help the environment with water conservation efforts. A rainwater harvesting water tank can even be used to provide all the water needed on a property, such as in off-grid living, when the right equipment and setup is used. For more on the practice of rainwater harvesting, see our Rain Tanks Series posts.
Consider annual local rainfall amounts, roof size or other rain catchment area, and estimate regular water usage needs. These variables will help determine what rain tank size is needed or that may be best for your particular use case.
Annual rainfall amounts vary by geographic location and seasonally. The U.S. Government monitors, records and provides access to regular rainfall amounts. This data can be used to estimate how much rainwater you can potentially expect for your location. The EPA National Stormwater Calculator is an excellent resource for various information including local annual precipitation.
The following equation can be used to estimate your water tank size based on how much rainwater a harvesting system can potentially collect.
Rainwater Harvest Volume (Gallons) = Rainfall Amount (Inches) x Catchment Area (Square Feet) x 0.623
This equation can be used for any rainfall amount; example: a single day&#;s rain event, how much rain in a month, or a year&#;s worth of rainfall.
For more on this, see our post How Much Rainwater Can I Collect with Rainwater Harvesting.
To answer this question, know the gallon size of your water tank and the square footage of the rainfall catchment area &#; usually, this is the roof of a home, shed, barn or business. It doesn&#;t matter how steep or flat or how intricate a design the roof is when it comes to the square foot area of the roof and how much rain it will be able to collect. Often, the square footage of a roof is just slightly larger than the square footage of the home, which makes for a good estimate.
When you know the square footage of your rain catching area, calculating how much rain is needed to fill a water tank is easy:
Inches of Rain Needed to Fill Water Tank = Rainwater Tank Gallon Size ÷ [Square Feet of Roof Area x 0.623]
Note, for the above equation, the brackets indicate the roof area must be multiplied by 0.623 before dividing into the rain tank size.
Rainwater is only considered safe and okay for drinking if the rainwater is properly treated to potable grade quality water to ensure health and safety. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention(CDC) also supports rainwater harvesting use for drinking if treated. For more on this, see our post Why Should I Not Drink Rainwater (Before Treating It).
To make rainwater safe for drinking, screen out all incoming debris, use a water pump, multistage cartridge filtration with a sediment filter, 5 micron filter and carbon filter, and a UV light water treatment system or treat the water with a chemical. For more on this, see our post How to Turn Rainwater into Drinking Water.
Water tanks can be installed just about anywhere they can fit and should be installed on a flat, level, solid surface that provides full support to the bottom of the tank and is made from materials that will withstand the full weight of the tank when full of water.
The best type of surface or foundation can depend on the water tank volume and therefore the tank&#;s total weight. Recommended surface types for vertical water tanks include a concrete pad, a base made of crusher dust, pea gravel, or directly on the ground. Pads or elevated stands made from metal or wood are also okay and often used given they are built in such a way to hold the weight.
A water tank foundation base is important for long term, secure installation, especially for large volume water tanks. A proper foundation will ensure tank stability and safety. If there is uncertainty in performing this as the tank owner, a qualified individual or professional should be sought out.
For more on this, see our post on How to Select and Install a Water Storage Tank.
The best place to keep a water tank may depend on the select type of tank. Inside a structure is best, if possible as an option, as it limits temperature fluctuations as well as the extent of sunlight exposure for algae growth. For outside water tanks, it is often best to keep them in shaded locations such as within sheds, barns, beneath trees, roof overhangs, and also on the northern side of structures as this will limit the amount and duration of direct sunlight.
Tightening a bulkhead fitting is sometimes needed over time as it can loosen during normal use or is needed whenever installing a new bulkhead or replacing an existing one. To properly tighten a bulkhead fitting, hand tighten the bulkhead locknut then perform an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn. It is important to not overtighten a bulkhead as it can damage the seal and cause the fitting to leak.
Yes, cold temperatures do not affect or damage a polyethylene water tank. Therefore, it is okay to leave a plastic water tank outside in freezing temperatures. The only concern with freezing temperatures and poly water tanks is whenever water is stored inside the tank. As long as there is enough extra space to allow the water to expand as it freezes, it is okay to leave water in the tank when temperatures are below freezing.
Water as a fluid will expand while it freezes from a liquid to a solid, meaning the amount of space the water occupies will increase. Without ample room to allow the water to freeze and expand, the freezing water can press against the fitting(s) and/or lid and potentially damage these connections. If this happens and the lid or bulkhead fitting becomes damaged, they can be replaced.
There are five options that can help keep water from freezing in a water tank.
The maximum recommended service temperature for polyethylene water tanks is 120°F for internal water storage conditions. Although high density polyethylene (HDPE, what most poly water tanks are made from) is rated to handle temperature extremes up to 130°F for short periods, temperatures continually above 120°F will stress the limits of safety for most standard poly water tanks.
Ambient temperatures are not as much of a concern for a water tank as the internal temperature of stored materials. Due to the regular day and night cycle of warming and cooling, it is unlikely for outdoor temperatures above 100°F to cause the stored water to warm to a point where it could potentially weaken the water tank durability.
A high quality, well-maintained and ideally installed polyethylene water tank can last as long as 20 years, if not longer. However, there isn&#;t a set standard for poly water tank service life or anything but a general approximation of how long they will last, with most suggesting anywhere from 3 years to 20+ years.
The highest quality poly water tanks will be made by the industry&#;s most reputable manufacturers using premium, virgin grade resin molded with ultraviolet (UV) stabilizing compounds to protect the plastic against sunlight damage.
Some of the industry&#;s best water tank manufacturers include Norwesco, Snyder, Enduraplas, Ace Roto-Mold, and Dura-Cast.
A well-maintained poly tank will undergo regular cleaning and inspection schedules to ensure the tank remains in top performing state. An ideally installed water tank will be in a location that limits or prevents sunlight exposure, helps to maintain the stored water temperature, and maintains a structurally sound foundation that fully supports the base of the tank and does not erode over time. These considerations will help promote an overall healthier tank and maximize the water tank&#;s service life.
No, it is not acceptable or approved to use any above ground plastic water tank for underground installation.
Specifically designed underground water tanks (often called cisterns) are engineered, certified and approved for burial as they have been made to withstand the increased, extra load weight stress that accompanies being installed beneath the earth&#;s surface.
Some companies and DIYers support partial burial, such as only the base of an aboveground tank. However, we do not recommend this practice and doing so can actually void your water tank&#;s manufacturer&#;s warranty.
The maximum burial depth for an underground polyethylene water tank (cistern) will vary on the storage tank style, gallon capacity as well as any local government regulations pertaining to soil conditions, groundwater table height, and building codes.
In general, underground water tanks are engineered to withstand a maximum load weight of soil atop the tank on burial &#; this directly determines a cistern&#;s maximum burial depth. Cisterns are manufactured in different designs and volume capacities that will affect their maximum vertical load rating in pounds per square foot.
Check with the distributor or manufacturer to verify a cistern&#;s max vertical weight load and its certified max burial depth as most manufacturers provide an installation guide for their underground tanks.
While it may be okay in some installations, for most cases it is not recommended to drive over the spot where an underground water tank has been buried. Underground water tanks have not been engineered to withstand the weight load and force caused by a vehicle at surface level driving over the installed tank. This can cause an excessive weight load balance delivered to the buried tank that can damage the tank&#;s plumbing setup or cause the tank to crack.
Underground water tanks are usually not paved over due to regular maintenance and/or usage interaction requirements.
Most often and due to their size, polyethylene water tanks are shipped and delivered by independent freight transport and logistics companies on flatbed trucks or in semi-truck trailers.
These freight companies are hired to handle the transit of the water tank at the behest of the company selling the water tank. This means they are two separate companies &#; the company selling the water tank differs from the company that ships and delivers it &#; and this means any questions, comments, concerns or problems must be directed to the correct party.
The company selling the water tank is not responsible for problems that arise during shipping, just as the freight company is not responsible for a manufacturer defect.
For more on this, see our post on How to Order and Receive a Poly Storage Tank.
Shipping times for water tanks will vary. They can be affected by the freight origination point, freight carrier, potential backorder delays and other unforeseeable concerns.
On average, the shipping time for a water tank can take anywhere from 2 to 12 weeks after any potential lead time on the manufacture of the water tank.
The cost of purchasing a water tank will include the purchase price of the water tank itself, shipping and handling costs, as well as any additional costs with installing the water tank, which can include the foundation, plumbing and any additional accessories as needed for the application.
Water is best stored long term in polyethylene water tanks when the water is kept in a cool, temperature-stable, dark location away from sunlight. Temperatures between 50°F to 70°F are recommended. Underground water tanks make a great choice for long term water storage.
Using the proper amount of household bleach is a common method to purify water in a storage tank using a chemical additive. Several options exist for purifying the water in a storage tank to make the water safe for human use. They include:
1: Chlorine &#; Use of chlorine is a highly effective method to remove disease-causing pathogens and purify water to potable quality standards. Basic household bleach is the most used and recommended method for disinfecting a water supply and supported by government research and approvals. Bleach products that are scented, with additives for colored clothes, labeled as &#;splash less&#; or with additional cleaners should not be used.
Use chlorine bleach that is listed on the label to contain 5% to 9% concentration of sodium hypochlorite (the active ingredient in bleach and source of chlorine). Add 0.5 milliliters (mL) of chlorine bleach per gallon of water to be disinfected. In example, for a 250 gallon rainwater harvest tank, the recommended amount of bleach is 125 mL or about ½ cup or about 4.25 ounces.
After treating a water tank with chlorine bleach, wait at least 24 hours before using the water for drinking, cooking, bathing, or cleaning to ensure any potentially harmful bacteria, parasites, viruses have been eliminated. Source reference and extra information: NSW Health
2: Iodine &#; The iodine treatment method is often reserved for smaller water volumes and is commonly added in tablet form. The use of iodine in disinfection and water purification is not recommended for pregnant women, individuals with thyroid concerns, or known sensitivity to iodine due to potential complications. Iodine type disinfection is not recommended for extended use and better reserved for emergency type situations.
3: Boiling &#; Boiling water can be used to disinfect water drawn from a storage tank prior to its use. Water that is boiled for disinfection should be brought to a rolling boil for at least 1 minute. Boiling water is effective in killing and removing viruses, parasites and bacteria.
4: Filter &#; There are various filtration options available for water purification, some are more effective than others in what they filter out of the water. Some filters are designed for installation before a storage tank to filter the water before it enters the tank. Other filters are designed for filtration prior to use. Filters that meet NSF 53 and 58 certifications will effectively remove parasites. Reverse osmosis filters are most effective in removing bacteria, viruses, and harmful metals. Combining several filters in a multi-stage filtration system can clean and purify water and rainwater to meet and exceed drinking quality standards without the need to use chemicals.
5. Ultraviolet Light &#; Ultraviolet light systems incorporate UV emitting bulbs to transmit UV energy rays that can disable bacteria, parasites, and disable. UV light systems may not be effective in eliminating all pathogens &#; and this can be dependent on water quality and clarity &#; and the specific manufacturer&#;s recommendations and usage guidelines should always be followed. If use recommendations are followed and UV light is paired with a filtration system that clarifies water turbidity, UV disinfection can be 99.9% effective.
See this resource from the CDC for more details on water purification and treatment.
Most recommendations say purified water will remain okay to drink for at least six months in a sealed, undisturbed container stored in a cool, dark location. However, this depends on the extent of purification and methods used to purify the water in the tank.
Commercially prepared and sealed water containers, (water bottles, gallon jugs, etc.), are said to be good indefinitely if they remain sealed.
Water tanks and containers that have been personally filled and properly treated with a 5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution (bleach) are said to be good for up to 5 years, if not disturbed.
For personally filled containers not treated with bleach and are perhaps drawn from on occasion are advised with a maximum recommendation of six to 12 months. After this time, the water should be cycled and replaced.
The minimum recommendations are to keep 1 gallon of water per person per day for water use in an emergency, disaster or water shortage type situation. If animals or pets are included, keep 1 gallon of water per day for them as well. So, at least 1 gallon of water for every person in a family or otherwise accounted for per day. Water use includes drinking, food preparation and hygiene needs. Emergency water tanks are an excellent choice for water prepping and have been specifically made for this use.
Add 1 gallon of water per person and multiply by the number of days you plan to be prepared for in case of emergency water needs. In an example, a family of 4 would need 4 gallons of water a day, and if preparing for a water shortage event expected to last 1 month, the family would approximately need 120 gallons, at least. Information source: The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC).
Common schedule 40 PVC pipe is frequently used with water tanks for plumbing applications. If PVC is chosen for use, ensure the product is manufactured to be lead-free and meet ANSI/NSF 61 and 14 certifications for potable water handling. This recommendation holds even if the water tank will be for non-potable applications.
Most poly water tanks feature a female NPT threaded bulkhead with sizes ranging from 1/2&#; to 4&#;. Use of the same size diameter, threaded pipe is recommended.
Consider using a PVC true union ball valve to control the on/off release of water from the tank. A true union ball valve will allow the plumbing to be easily disassembled if ever needed for maintenance or relocating the tank.
The use of expansion joints and flexible connections when joining plumbing to tank fittings is recommended to account for the daily expanding and contracting poly water tanks experience due to heating and cooling arising from ambient temperature fluctuations. The rate and extent of expansion / contraction of polyethylene will vary by tank engineering specifics as well as the amount of temperature change and direct sunlight exposure. The amount a poly water tank expands and contracts may be slight and unperceived by the human eye, but is enough to cause extraneous stress to the tank and fittings, which can result in damage and leaks.
Yes and no. For poly water tanks, it is the materials used to manufacture the polyethylene tank that are approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) not the water tank itself. The water tank itself and the manufacturing facility is approved to meet the standards for drinking water use through certifications from the National Sanitation Foundation (NSF 61) and the American National Standards Institute (ANSI). Water tank products listed with ANSI/NSF Standard 61 certifications and listed as manufactured from FDA food grade plastic are approved for use with drinking water.
All water tank products listed in our potable water tanks category are certified manufactured from FDA approved materials and ANSI/NSF guaranteed for drinking water applications.
For more information, please visit rtr pipes.